Sittin in the Shade Wasting Time..

We moved Tempy this morning. Since we made spontaneous plans to get outta Dodge (Grand Canyon) we had no reservations for Memorial Day. Not good, especially in the camping west.  As a result the Fruita campground could only accomodate us until today. They were fully booked for this weekend so this morning we moved to Janet's place. Not our most level trailer set up, but it will do, and it is under the trees and free.  On a sunny CO weekend where it looks like temps could hit 90 and we are without our trusty AC, those trees (and the ever present breezes) will make all the difference. Oh yeah, and the bath house is great, we have free wi-fi and unlimited ice.  Who could ask for more - Thanks Janet :-)

So what have we been doing while de-altituding (that has to be a word , right?). We visited the Colorado National Monument earler this week. Bruce and I and Hazel were the lucky passengers on a narrated auto tour with Janet of the 23 mile Historic Rimrock Drive. Check out the webcam view from the Visitor's Center, talk about panoramic.  We stopped at all the appropriate photo op places, but unfortunately my new Nikon SLR camera battery was gone before we reached the top (guess moving 500+ pictures off the camera the previous night put a strain on it), so you will have to be satisfied with the paltry few I have included from my phone and the stellar ones here posted by NPS.The one I took of the switchback trail down the mountain is impressive in that 1. I actually got the picture, and 2.  Janet has hiked it, and probably run it, multiple times. Even more impressive, she rides the Rim Rock Drive all the time, up, across and back down, probably 33+miles from her house on a regular basis, on a bike, pedal not motorized either.  (I know, you are all wondering if we are truly related but I can assure you, she is my younger sister. Just look at her picture and tell me we don't look alike. Ok, Ok, look at her picture, add 100 pounds to her and then tell me we don't look alike.)  Since we had packed lunch, the picnic area just inside the east entrance at the bottom of the descent gave us a chance to relax (What? You think being a passenger isn't stressful?) and eat it while lounging in the sun. The drive (OK, ride then) was awesome, the tour guide very solicitous and as a result a wonderful time was had by all.  The view is so memorable that I think Bruce and I might just drive up to the Visitor's Center tonight and enjoy the almost last rays of the sun. At our age we certainly want to be back before dark as driving several miles of switch backs on skinny mountain roads in the dark where your eyes are pretty much night blind is dangerous for everyone.

So that was Tuesday. Whew!  What else you ask, besides of course relaxing in the breezy, pleasantly warm temperatures on Janet's front porch? (That is the perfect activity for me.) Well, this week Bruce  helped Janet trim overhanging trees and cut rampant growth (trees) from their irrigation ditch, I helped her get her wi-fi/internet/streaming movie Blu-Ray, etc. up and running (exhausting work but someone had to do it) and we have taken several opportunities to just ride through the general Fruita/Grand Junction area doing what we love best, sightseeing. We could easily relocate here, at least based on this week's visit.  Low humidity, relatively few aches & pains, beautiful scenery, balmy breezes (have I mentioned it has not stopped since we arrived and is pi,king up at this very minute, which, now that I think about it, might actually be a negative rather than a positive, especially in winter), plenty of sun (oh right, we already get that part) and closer proximity to family. Of course it would take more than a week here to get me to move, or would it?  I am sure we have done lots more but the front porch relaxing has caused everything else to slip my mind.

So it's another nice day today oexcept that bladted wind is kicking up again). Instead of sitting on Janet's front porch, I am sitting under the trees in front of Tempy on my makeshift front porch. (Camper rug and chairs) Bruce is in town trying to replace work boots that I am pretty glad he was wearing and pretty sure he cut while chainsawing ealier this week (remember the branches and trees?)  Janet returned to Breckenridge last night so we have the place to ourselves. Don't worfy, I have a kdy so bath house, wi-fi and ice still avsilable. Othetwise, g uess we will see what eateries are open in Fruita until she returns Sat night or Sun morning. What? I am supposedly on vacation. Life is soooo hard right now. Later....

Decicions, Decisions..

We are sitting outside the camper enjoying the "breezy" (25mph+} sw winds on a balmy 85°, 6% humidity afternoon. Tempy protects us from most of the wind, so it really does feel balmy in the shade. We are both very respectful of the sun here, because even at this lower altitude and with a dusty haze, you will burn in an instant. Been there, done that - not fun.

When I left you last, we had arrived here as if by magic. Not so of course. We left the Grand Canyon on the one road out, AZ 67. Reaching Jacob Lake we turned north on Alt US 89 to Kanab, UT, where we once again merged with US 89 out of Page.

Here you ascend the Grand Staircase via the Mount Carmel Scenic Byway, passing through the vermillion, white and ultimately pink cliffs. This road features a veritable tableaux of the area's geological development as well as providing access first to Zion National Park and then Bryce Canyon National Park. As we had been to both of these wonderful parks on previous trips, and because we had a destination in mind for that day, we bypassed them. Trying to take the "road less traveled" as well as stay at places we had never been, we decided to stop for a day or so at Otter Creek State Park in Utah before continuing on to Grand Junction, CO.  So we left US 89  at Kingston and turned east on UT 62, a delightful road through canyons and small farms that followed the east fork of the Sevier River. Reaching Otter Creek Resevoir, we discovered dispersed camping on its shores, down gravel and gullied roads. If that was the park, we determined it wasn't for us. If that wasn't the park, then we missed it completely. Either way we decided  it was still early and we could probably make Capital Reef National Park (my suggestion of course) and the first come, first serve park campground at Friuta. Now let's recap right here - it is Saturday, the weather is sunny and mild, spring has just really emerged in the west, we have no reservations, oh, and by the way, it seems there are lookers and campers appearing everywhere. Anyone want to guess where this is leading?

We were only 25 mi south of I-70 when I convinced Bruce it was only about 40 miles to Capital Reef, so following the instructions from his manual GPS (who is never, or at least rarely wrong), he turned east on the beautiful scenic byway (you do realize byway means you are in the middle of nowhere most of the time, a beautiful nowhere, but nowhere none the less) UT 24 towards Capital Reef National Park. The ride (my point of view since he refuses to let me drive) was spectaclar, green valleys, high mountains, even a quick wait while the cowboys and dogs drove a herd of cattle up the road in front of us to a different field, and then we began to approach Capital Reef. If you have ever been in that part of Utah you will know what I mean when I say it is amazing. My words and paltry pictures (as we drove right through because of course, the campground was full) can never do it justice. Here is a link to experience this area from NPS view

The first indication I had that we might be in trouble was seeing campers coming towards us in mid-afternoon on this byway. (Remember my definition - middle of nowhere). I just told myself they were on thier way to some place else - Otter Creek for instance.  As we got closer, we started to see campers in odd places, pulled off on side roads, up small trails, balanced precariously on large rocks, etc. Then we hit the park entrance and that stopped, so I felt all was still OK. But when we slowed to turn in the Visitor Center and saw the cluster there and the Campground Full sign, I could hear Bruce's silent fuming as though he was talking out loud, then again, maybe some of it was said out loud. Anyway, we drove on.

Unfortunately, we had driven this road years earler and unless something had changed materially, we knew there were little or no amenities between us and the edge of the world. We were not wrong. We finally hit Hanksville (did I say byway and no amenities before?) where 24 veers north towards I-70 and drove most of those remaining 44 miles without even cell service. We reached the interchange at I-70 and found nothing but access, so we went on to Green River. I had called the Green River State Park and they said they still had sites available so we headed there. But we weren't the only ones racing for some place open that night and apparently they beat us. We did the Park drive thru, looking for anything but it was not to be. Then we tried a private campground advertising outside the park, but it looked like an old KOA with permanent residents, broken down vehicles and not even working amenities. We couldn't even figure out who to pay. Moved on.  I tried the internet one more time and found another private campground just on the other side of the State Park's golf course.  Finally, a place to park. I didn't even object to the cost when we ended up with a full service site, including cable we couldn't even access. We were there and stopped.

We set up on a level,(yea!!!} mostly shady site, unhooked, (yeah, I know, you are wondering why for only one night), fed the children, started the AC and hit the local bar & grill (now you know why we unhooked.)  The food was great, homemade 1/2lb cheeseburgers and hand cut fries, along with beer for Bruce and wine for me. We were in Utah. Sign over the bar said that alcohol would only be served if you ordered a meal, so we ordered a meal.  Though it looked like a regular bar, they only had beer and wine. It was perfect.

Apparently we weren't the only travelers looking for a place along I-70 that night because several more had arrived by the time we returned to the campground. I was serenaded to sleep by a couple of fellows in the camper next to us singing and playing guitar and fiddle. It had been a really long day and the manual GPS went out for the night.

We woke, found breakfast, dieseled up and got on the road Sunday morning feeling much better. It was less than 2 hours to Fruita and Grand Junction so we had plenty of time to hassle the park rangers, find several sites, change arrangements, write blog catch up,  and still visit with my sister Janet. She and her husband and son live in Breckenridge but also have a small house on some land just in front of the Colorado National Monument in Grand Junction, thus our route change to here.

But what are the decisions I referenced in this blog's title - well, are we really ready to take Tempy and these 2 animals on this drive, drive, drive type trip to Alaska. When we left the Grand Canyon my answer was No, let's go home. Even after a couple of sanity restoring days at a much lesser breathable altitude and with markedly better weather my answer was still No. But today it is, we don't know.  This has definitely been a trip of Discovery. We have discovered we really don't want to take what amounts to a continual driving trip with the dog and cat. We are tied to them. Stopping to do a museum or tour along the way is nigh impossible if it is hot. That spontaneity I wanted is almost impossible with feedings, walking, etc.  We discovered we are already 3000 miles into the trip and aren't having the fun we imagined, as a result of routing, weather, Tempy, small bed and needy animals or other things yet unidentified, we just don't know. But has this still been a good trip - wholeheartedly Yes! We have learned so much about how we like to "camp" as opposed to traveling.  Thete is so much more, but you get the picture. Anyway, will we still go on to Alaska - today I can truthfully day We don't know and we don't have to decide untIl Tuesday, when we go East or West on I-70.  Later....

The Grand Canyon North Rim is ...Breathtaking - Literally

We arrived at the North Rim after a long drive on some pretty bumpy Arizona roads. (Imagine the mess in the camper when we stopped, things were everywhere.) Traveling north out of Flagstaff on US 89 towards Page, AZ will take you to both sides of the Canyon, but you turn west on AZ 64 to reach the South Rim East Entrance at Desert View.  If you continue north on US 89 through the edge of the Navajo Nation, along Echo Cliffs to Bitter Springs, AZ and there, instead of continuing to Page (which you can't right now anyway as a result of a landslide on 89), veer on to Alt US 89, drive almost up to the Utah line and cross the Colorado River at Navajo Bridge just south of Lee's Ferry in Marble Canyon, drive past the Vermillion Cliffs through House Rock Valley and ascend 2500 feet on winding roads to the Kaibab Plateau to Jacob Lake, you will intersect with AZ 67, the road to the North Rim.   Once you reach Jacob Lake, where we spent the night on the 14th, it is still 30 miles south on AZ 67 to the entrance gate on the north rim and then another 12 miles to the actual rim and any accommodations or other amenities.  That road was not opened officially until May 15th (so you can see why we spent the night in Jacob Lake), the same day as the opening of the North Rim. 

We stayed at Kaibab Camper Village (cute name huh) overnight because we wanted to get an early start on the 15th.  It is the only campground in the area with facilities (electricity, water & sewer if you so desire) and we wanted to fill our water tank and make sure our batteries were fully charged.  There are absolutely no hook-ups on the North Rim.  Kaibab Camper Village is located on AZ 67 right at Jacob Lake and a good thing too, since that seemingly short 42 miles still took us an hour and a half the next morning.  As I said, forget those fast driving speeds, even if you aren't a big ole' truck pulling a 5th wheel up and down the mountain roads, you will certainly end up behind one. LOL.  Altitude at the entrance gate - 8827', help, I can hardly breathe!!!  What were we thinking?  Once we arrived at the north rim campground and checked in, we set up on what was one of the most beautiful, but uneven sites we had camped on to date.  Admittedly, the park service does tell you to bring wood, etc. for leveling, and you had better take them seriously. We, of course, always have wood, and this trip we also had 2 sets of those lovely plastic leveling blocks and ended up  using almost all of our supplies. Altitude at the campground - about 8300'. Not breathing much better here either, but the view of the Canyon from our site was pretty awesome.

Temperatures weren't too bad on the 15th when we first arrived, but the wind was wicked by early afternoon and the temperature dropped 20 degrees every time a cloud covered the sun. We drove (yes you heard me, drove) the 3 miles to the Lodge that afternoon, walked around to see what was there, made reservations for dinner the next night, came back to the camper and I took a nap - must have been the lack of oxygen.  Dinner was whatever we had in the camper - wind precluded using the little gas grill, even with Bruce's home made wind shield.  Then it was an early night - you can bet there was absolutely no TV reception, although I did have 3G cell reception at our rim campsite on and off.  Sleeping that night wasn't any better and it had nothing to do with the earlier nap.  In fact, sleeping didn't really happen the whole time we were up that high. Obviously one of the downsides of this adventure.

Next day we got up early and went on a wonderful winding  scenic drive to Cape Royal and Point Imperial (the highest point on the North Rim at 8803'.)  Point Imperial overlooks the Painted Desert and the eastern end of the Grand Canyon. Cape Royal is at is at the other end of the drive and gives you unlimited vistas to the east and west.  There were numerous stops in between and we actually took several short walks on the trails at that altitude.  It was warm and we were there before most of the other park visitors were out for their outings (except for all those really fit people who were hiking the Kaibab Trail).  The morning trip took several hours and the wind cooperated for most of the drive. 

But what do I want to say about this time seeing the majesty of this Canyon.  I want to say get out there and see it while you can and not just this Park.  The pictures show you how much pollution is in the air, so everything is covered in a haze, unless you are right on top of it.  vistas are not clear.  This pollution isn't all man made either.  The west has been in a drought position for awhile and the dust in the air gets worse.  Add to that the inversion layers created by exhausts and other contaminates and the air is getting less and less clear.  If you haven;t seen any of the majestic parks, mountains, rivers, canyons, etc. of our country and want to - then make the time.  Get on a plane, fly some where you want to go or take a road trip, rent an RV, get a tent, sleep in your car, get cheap hotels, eat out of coolers, etc. - just do it.  Stop waiting because in the years Bruce and I have been doing this, the views have become more and more diffused.   May people I have spoken to say- Boy,  I want to do that some time, and then they don't.  Bruce and i have met so many young people who have just said- I am going to do a road trip, and they are doing it.  They are not living the high end life, but they are enjoying what they are doing.  They are on motorcycles & in jeeps, sleeping in tents, packing coolers, hiking and driving.  They have babies and small children and pets with them.  They take kids out of school and take them outside.  If you are close, take a long weekend, if you are far away, take a long week with a Friday and second Monday.  Maybe you can;t take the time to drive to the Grand Canyon, but I bet there is some place that is a stretch you can reach.  Don't wait.  Make it part of getting to old age, not something you do when you get there because too many people never get to that part.  It will be much more enjoyable to do while you are young and you will impart a sense of adventure and a love of nature and the outdoors if you do these things with your children when you are both young.  Make memories while you can.

OK - Back to our regularly schedule program.

Thursday, after the drive and we returned to our site we actually got out the grill and our chairs, fixed some lunch, sat in the sun and enjoyed the rest of the afternoon. Although there were clouds and some wind, Mother Nature seemed much more willing to cooperate.  Dinner that evening was something different though.  Usually we find that lodges such as the North Rim are great places to experience a good dinner in the full ambiance of the location.  Unfortunately, when the North Rim opened on the 15th, the campground was booked full, the tour buses began arriving and I don't think the Lodge was up to speed.  Dinner Thursday night did not go as expected.  We were sat timely, and the server did what she could to make sure we had bread (great loaf baked fresh with garlic and served with a wonderful spicy balsamic olive oil for dipping ) and our Cesare Salad was served timely, but an hour later we were still waiting for our dinner.  When it finally arrived, it was overcooked (if it is any more than medium it is overcooked in my opinion) oh, and it was burned.  We had them just send both meals back, since by then we were stuffed from the bread, water and salad.  Once thing I can say for 8300', my appetite is diminished and I am easily satiated. Would yes - say we really get healthy and can breathe at that altitude, can actually take some of the better scenic hikes, etc. ;-) and return - but we would never try to do it on opening day or even opening week.  El Tovar, on the South Rim, is open all year, so they never experience the opening day issues, all new staff, seasonal problems to the degree we found here and of course, we held them up for comparison.  And even though everything I read up to the day of our visit said the concessionaire would have the whole lodge up and running by on the 15th, they didn't quite make it. By the time we got back to the camper, it had turned cold, we were less than happy and of course, the winds had started up again big time. Oh, and by the way- I still couldn't sleep, so of course Bruce couldn't either.

Friday dawned cold as the dickens (30s that morning) completely overcast and the winds blowing at a sustained 30mph.  We had listened to them howl through the canyon all night, so were not surprised when again, there was going to be no cooking outside and probably little, if any walking for us.  We are such wimps, I know.  So what do wimps from Florida do who can't breathe comfortably (that means short, gasping breaths), really don't want to put on winter coats and cinch the hat around their ears to even leave the camper do? They find some place warm. And where might that be? If you have ever been to one of the more remote National Parks, you might know the answer to this question - no?  Well in the showers and the laundry of course.  So Friday became was shower/laundry day with a sandwich from the deli for lunch while we waited for the dryers to finish.  After that, it was back to the camper, turn on the wonderful catalytic gas heater Bruce had installed (remember, we didn't have electricity and camper heaters take electricity for the fans to work and generator times wer 7-9 am and 6-8 pm only in the park) and read.  Even the cat stayed in front of the heater. We had already visited the registration kiosk during laundry time to tell them we were checking out a day early (way too high and cold for us, remember and that meant we were not having fun, no matter the wonderful view.) So finished our last full day getting ready to leave, again. Bruce did have to go out to put the grill away and the chairs we had used once, oh and walk the dog, but even the cat and dog seemed miserable at that altitude.  Wolfy could hardly move around, was not even jumping up for dinner and Hazel was definitely off her feed.  She didn't even want to walk around the campground and hurried right back to he heater as soon as she could get around the circle. I know the two of them were agreeing on what a good idea we had to leave a day early.  Next morning we were up early, gave the Lodge a chance to redeem itself for breakfast (you don't really think I was going to cook and then clean up to leave do you?). Breakfast was fine, they were doing both a nice buffet with eggs to order as well as serving off a menu, so we were happy. We were out of the site by 8AM and off for another adventure.  I will leave the telling of that for tomorrow.

Where are we - We are currently in Grand junction, CO visiting with my sister until after Memorial Day.  We are at a much lower altitude (4600') where we can make some sensible decisions about going forward while we are not under the terrible influence of too much altitude, too little oxygen, too little sleep and just general orneriness.  I am sitting at her dining room table using her internet connection after eating a nice grilled ham, assiago cheese and tomato sandwich and drinking a lovely glass of white wine. Bruce is now outside with Janet cutting up trees (men and chain saws - what can say) and creating a place to move the camper to her house for the weekend.  With this type of connectivity, and service, the next chapter should actually come much faster.  Suffice it to say though, the Grand Canyon North Rim took our breath away. Later.....