A Taste of Tuscany - correct link

Here' s correct link for the Abbey of Mounte Olive Maggiore. Using phone to blog and won't let me correct original.

http://www.monteolivetomaggiore.it/

Added one for the Fattoire also.

http://www.fattoriapulcino.it/en-home.aspx

A Taste of Tuscany..

Maggi took the wheel yesterday and was a real road warrior. I have to first apologize that it was a day that began with "if my head was not connected I'd have left it behind"....no phone OR camera was with mre on our first drive through Tuscany. Thank goodness Maggi had her phone or we ( or should I say you dear readers) would have missed everything.

We left to drive north towards Montepulciano intentionally staying off the autostrada. Of course we had the requisite drivers run up behind us, fly by on corners and probably cuss us at round-abouts but who cares, we enjoyed ourselves. There aren't any real pull-offs for picture taking, and wide spots in the road that were perfect in retrospect are passed in a blur, so countryside pictures this trip are at a minimum. The roads are definitely small car, stick shift oriented and probably a motorcycle riders dream, as long as they never wanted to enjoy the scenery.

The landscape was dotted with castle-like towns with romantic names that roll off the tongue, newly planted fields, grape vines and olive trees. In this part of Italy the olives don't drop to the ground but are harvested by hand. Many of the trees were just getting their leaves and all reflected the growth patterns resulting from continual winds. Giant cedars line many drives, lower branches trimmed off leaving an artistic canopy. Italian cypress are used wonderfully as wind breaks and definitely let us know we were in Tuscany.

Reaching Montepulcino, we stopped at a Fattoria (Farm) store where they produced and bottled their own wine, cheese, sausage, olive oil, etc. and was a wonderful break for two hungry women needing a rest stop. Samples abounded and we tried all the wines, the olive oil on toasted bread, various sausages and of course the cookies and chocolate, After buying an assortment we ventured next door for a bowl of Robillita (thick vegetable soup). Yesterday's high was about 57° and the wind was howling. In the sun and out of the wind, or in the car, we were actually comfortable. Maggi is definitely suffering more than me but I can't figure out why.

After Montepulciano, we ventured to the Abbiazia di Monte Oliveto Maggiore where we toured the part of the Abbey open to the public. It was much more impressive than the Duomo in Orvieto, but think it also wasn't as old. The Benedictine Monks (no vow of silence here as I heard them chatting as they left the chapel) were chanting the applicable Nona liturgy. It was beautiful to hear, even for a non-Benedictine.  After figuring out how to pay for parking at the off site validation area, we zoomed back to Orvieto on a more direct but still lovely route. We dined on our own wine, sausage and cheese bought at the Fattoria along with toasted bread with olive oil and tomatoes. We made a quick trip afterwards to the bakery to buy morning pasteries and ogle the guys and then sprinted to the gelato place before closing. After all that, we called it an early night. Ciao.

Mr Toad's Wild Ride....

Pivkef up our rental car Tuesday. Now what could this title have to do with that statement. First, let's all remember, we are in Italy. Roads, like underground cave passages, are generally narrow, go up and down and zig zag/curve every which a way. On top of that, these relaxed, smell the roses Italians are anything but behind the wheel.

We rode the funiculore down to Orvieto Scala, and of course half way down I realized I had forgotten my International drivers permit(IDP). Hoping they would not ask for it we proceeded to Hertz. I have an idea that who you rent from and who may ultimately stop you depends on whether you are ever really asked for the IDP.  Bruce just said get it, its $25 and if needed and not had something like a €300 fine. The Travel Gods were with us as all she wanted was my passport, both our drivers licenses and more money. Rain began as we walked out so we hurried to the Pizzeria next door for a quick lunch.

After we finished lunch the rain had subsided and we were getting into Siesta time so we decided a drive was in order as maybe most drivers were home. We jumped in the car and tried to back out. First I need to say, its been at least 30 years or so since I drove a standard transmission, and then you usually pushed the shifter down and into reverse. We were very lucky we didn't end up plowing into the wall in front of us as I tried to quickly back into traffic. The car kept trying to go forward. Just before going inside to ask how to get the bleepity bleep thing into reverse we stumbled on the button on inside front of shifter. Imagine that, push and put in R, why didn't we think of that? Then it was balance the clutch, back out onto a busy road, get it back in 1st, don't stall out and Get Out Of The Way!  Success and we were off.

Our next hurdle was map reading and using the Garmin NUVI(GPS). We finally got out of town, got the GPS working and then realized that we were in the mountains or at least pretty big hills and every road zig zagged up and down. As tourists, we weren't interested in speeding up, down and around so learned very quickly to pull to the side and slow down for locals racing up behind us and ultimately around us. As we were exploring the Travel Gods smiled on us again and we passed Le Velette (e's sound like eh), a vineyard that had been mentioned in a Rick Steves'  radio program Maggi had downloaded that included an interview with one of the owners, Cecelia Bottai.(C with e or i following sounds like ch so her name is pronounced chehchehlia , Bota, long o and long a) We turned and drove slowly down the teeny road through the vineyard and of course a car speeds right up behind us. What a surprise when the woman who rolls down her window turns out to be Cecelia herself. We inquired about a tasting/tour and she said they usually do it by appointment but if we wanted to return at 4:30 she had 2 Americans coming. She couldn't do it then as she had a busload of Germans coming that afternoon. We agreed to return then, thankful we would get to do it at all.

Now we had about 3.5 hours to kill and didn't want to go back to Orvieto so took off south along same road. Unfortunately Maggi had marked Le Velette on NUVI so we think it kept trying to take us back there. Even better, NUVI told us to turn left or turn right where there were no roads. Took us awhile to realize all those zigs and zags were really confusing her and even longer for us to find the mute button. We ended up having a wonderful drive through small medieval looking towns and spectacular countryside to Lake Bolsena and back  and by then we needed a rest stop badly. Again, Travel Gods smiled on us and we stumbled, literally on CUSTODI Winery. The parking lot was empty and of course it was Siesta time but we gave it a try. As Maggi was walking away the door opened and the proprietress invited us in. We sampled several wines, of course bought a few, and then returned to Let Velette just as the large group of Germans were picking up their wine purchases and getting on their bus. We were treated to an impromptu song by the group where it was immediately obvious they didn't learn that harmony riding on the bus. After they left, Cecelia came over, said she was wrong, they were a professional choral group of Austrians. She then indicated that the other two Americans had canceled and would we rather come back for a wine tasting and buffet on Thursday since she had a Rick Steves' tour group coming and we could join them. We readily agreed, hoping Rick might actually be there too of course, and took off for home.

We miraculously found our way back through the small towns and up the hill to the designated parking garage right behind Ripa Medici, where we were staying. Sabrina had given us a pass to wave at the machine getting us in to the passholders garage and said Ripa Medici had 3 spaces and to park anywhere. What she had not said was anywhere meant just not in a reserved spot. We spent 10 minutes driving around inside looking for something designated for Ripa Medici parking. Thank God for texting or we could still be searching and not realized just pull in anywhere not reserved.

Dinner took us to the Trattorria Del Moro Aronne where we sat near the garden and enjoyed the beautiful overhanging wisteria, from inside. It gets cold in the evening. Then home via a new way where we stumbled on a wonderful bakery and bought some yummy flaky air pastries with a little filling, served by two hot Italian men. We vowed to return.  On that note. Ciao

A city under the city..

Monday, Maggi and I decided to tour Underground Orvieto. We walked up to the Piazza del Duomo, bought our tickets and settled down to wait for the English speaking tour. Waiting is always more fun when you people watch and in Italy, that is an approved past time. While waiting we're pretty sure we saw a man take his dog (not a service anima that we could ascertain although it was across the piazza) into the Duomo. We couldn't decide if he was part of the tour group going in, or just crashing by getting lost in the mix, but he and the dog disappeared. They allow dogs in restaurants so why not the cathedral? Makes sense to me.

Anyway, on with the tour. Underground Orvieto is composed of thousands of caves, wells, grottos and passageways, many interconnected that were dug in the stone under the city above.  Beginning with the Etruscans sometime in the 5-6th century B.C., the inhabitants of this plateau found that the distinctive geological nature of the stone on which Orvieto stands, tuff or compressed volcanic ash, was easily cut and carved into a warren of underground areas. Some of the uses included hiding from pesky Romans, wells to get water, dove and pigeon cotes for raising food, olive oil presses and storage,  (the caves stay around 57°), cisterns, escape routes in case the city came under siege, a cement quarry, kilns for their ceramics, and living areas for more people when the city was rebuilt in middle ages after it was razed by the Romans in 264BC. The caves were even ready to be used in WWII as protection for patients with a direct passage cut to the hospital. As you can tell, there is a whole secret history under modern Orvieto, a true city beneath the city with a history that archaeologists are still exploring to learn more about the Etruscans.

Now, as you can tell, we went underground. (Title gave it away, right?) Everyone knows that when you go down, some how you have to get back up.  Well I can tell you for sure, THERE WAS NO ELEVATOR.  No, instead there were teeny, tiny, narrow passageways with steps a long way from code and they almost did me in!!!  I thought I would die getting "back up." Even Maggi agreed her heart rate took a beating. OK, so I didn't die, but just so you won't have to wonder...Yes, I did climb all the stairs by myself, and yes I was almost catatonic at the top and yes, I had to sit for 15 minutes (at least) to recover but....we made it!  Honestly, the tour was worth the €6 we each paid, and was much better than the Duomo. The young guide did a great job on the English version, making sure all questions were answered and enlightening us with several versions of the historical views of the Etruscan origins and way of life. Seems there are always differences of opinions when a people just seem to disappear and don't leave a clear trail for later historians. Imagine that. What were those Etruscans thinking?

Exhausted and hungry we went in search of food and drink, thankfully finding it not too far away. After a panini and gelato we managed to make it back to the apartment for a well deserved rest.

Dinner was ok, ate at La Polomba not too far away. Had our requisite bruschette and primi piatti (pasta) and came home. Another well played day. Ciao.

Exploring Orvieto

Yesterday (Saturday)was one of Orvieto's two weekly open market days. Farmers with fresh foods, butchers with meats and cheeses, artisans with hand made items, and vendors offering shoes, clothes, household items, etc. and even flea market imports came to ply their trades in the Piazza del Popolo. It appears most Orvietoans came to shop too. It was an interesting way to shop. Maggi and I looked but, big spenders that we are, purchased only a hand made bracelet each.

After market we headed to the eastern end of town to check out
La funicolare di Orvieto (the funicular or incline train) that connects historical, walled Orvieto on the plateau to Orvieto Scala, the more modern section at the base of the plateau that has grown up around the train station and is the shopping and transportation hub. We rode the incline train down, checked out the train station and rode back up so did no exploring of that area. After walking up hill to town center from the funicular, we decided lunch was in order so stopped for a glass of wine, a shared Caprese pizza and then gelato (yum, yum, yum) on our walk back to Ripa Medici.

We had dinner  reservations at 7:30 at what our hostess Sabrina called a "special place".  Just to make it clear, those were early reservations. Restaurants don't open usually for dinner before that time. Anyway, we dined last night right around the corner at Ristorante Al Pozzo Etrusco da Giovanni. It was indeed special. We began with Antipasti- Fonduta di formaggio al tartufo con pane croccante (Truffle cheese fondue with crusty bread). The Primi piatti or first plate was Tortellini al tartufo fresco (  Tortellini with fresh truffles). Since we shared each course we decided to have Secondi piatti or second plate. We chose the Tagliata di manzo con pere e pecorino locale which ended up being sliced steak, cooked medium, with a local pecorino sauce topped with thinly sliced pears. It was an amazing combination. The first two courses required a white wine so we enjoyed a nice Orvieto Classico. A Montefalco Rosso paired perfectly with the steak. We spent almost 2 hours on dinner, never feeling rushed. In fact, in Italy, you can have the table all night if that's what you want and the bill won't appear until you actually ask, il  conto, per favore. No "turn those tables" mentality exists here.

Today started dreary so we decided on a walk, at least part ways, on the Anello della Rupe (Ring of the rock/cliff/outcropping), the walking-trail that runs around the volcanic rock on which the town of Orvieto is perched. It’s only a few meters below the city center, yet it’s a world away.

The percorso (trail) is a trek that circumnavigates the town, located midway down its steep cliffs. We started right outside our apartment and walked about a third of the way. It is up, down, up, down, and then when we reached our getting off point it was up, up, up....I thought I was going to die.

The trail is lined with rustic wooden fences. If you look up you can see grottos cut into the cliffs as well as the walls of Orvieto.  The view is of postcard perfect Umbrian countryside, including the Necropoli del Crocefisso del Tufo...Etruscan tombs dating back to the 4th-6th centuies B.C. and named  for the little chapel, Chiesa del Crocefisso del Tufo you pass on the path set into the tufa under the city with its crucifix carved into the rock. Quite a walking path they have, don't you agree? My goal is to try to walk the whole Anello della Rupe before we leave.

We wandered the little alleys and roads of Orvieto after our walk today, ultimately lunching close to home on the local pasta Umbrichelli, invented in Orvieto during war times when there was a shortage of food and money. It is made solely from water and flour. We both had it with what looked like sautéed veggies and a little olive oil. A great lunch we want to repeat before we leave. After a short rest we went to the Duomo and took the self-guided walk. More on its history later. The day ended with a quick supper we purchased at a pizzaria and brought home,  hot ham and cheese sandwiches, and an early night. Ciao.