Thursday, June 23, 2016

Duluth Harbor

View of lake from our site
I've been admonished to keep up with my blog, irrespective of texts so am doing laundry and playing catch-up. I've found it takes a fair bit of my data to post pictures and I'm not always as happy doing this on my phone...so my computer and Wi-Fi are helping today. As an update first though, we are at The Pines on Kabetogama Lake - just 27 miles south of International Falls, MN and right within, for all practical purposes, Voyageurs National Park.
Laundry
Nice and clean, but costly.
Laundry room is nice, but I can tell you - EXPENSIVE. I am paying $3.25/load to wash and to dry. I have been told to expect same in Canada and Alaska, so guess I shouldn't be too surprised.  That's why I now have lines in my bathroom and a portable line for the back of the camper, just haven't had to use yet, lol. Guess that's going to change. Anyway, back to our last day near Two Harbors.

Duluth is a really nice city, great size and has all the amenities anyone could want. If this area wasn't so darn cold in winter, and so very, very far from my wonderful grandchildren, I wouldn't mind considering relocating.Ha!!!!!

Right on Lake Superior, it is one of the "Twin Ports" - Superior and Duluth. It is also where the end of Grandma's Marathon takes place - right down town in Canal Park, the area we chose to visit. Although we did walk around that whole area (should I say hiked Jeremy A.?), we spent most of our time in the Lake Superior Maritime visitor's Center, operated by the Army Corp of Engineers. It is a great museum of maritime history on Lake Superior and is right next to the Aerial Bridge. They announce the ships that are coming into the bay and under the bridge so that everyone in the area can come see them enter. It is really an awesome sight, probably like watching the ships entering and leaving the Panama Canal. We were there when one came through and watched the bridge in action as well as the ship enter through what seems to be a small canal.  It is much larger than it looks, but it still takes quite a bit of skill I'm sure, especially since most of the traffic are ore ships..kinda like a giant tug hooked permanently to the back of a 500+' barge. Think about maneuvering that baby. Almost missed the event, since we had gone back to the car to add money to the meter and drop off some "stuff" but as you can see, at leaset caught it going under the span. The Duluth ship canal was dug in 1871 to develop an inner harbor on the Minnesota side. It essentially caused the original Minnesota Point peninsula to become an island. That meant that ferries, barges, rowboats, skiffs, etc. were used to take people across the canal when it was not frozen over. Then in 1905 the Aerial bridge was built. It originally had a gondola that hung from the span and moved people and goods across the canal on a schedule with the trolley line, essentially an extension of the public transportation system. The gondola was replaced by the moveable lift span in 1929 when automobile traffic increased. The Aerial bridge was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1979.

The information on the COE in the museum was very infomrative. That organization, unofficially, has been in existence since  1775 and the American Revolution. The first trained engineers were French, and one of them, Louis Duportall, was promoted to brigadier general and Chief Engineer, a position he held from 1777 until the end of the war.  He advocated a distinct engineering branch of the Army and in 1778, Congress authorized 3 companies of Miners and Sappers (builders of trenches and earthworks). In 1778, Congress passed a resolution forming the Corp of Engineers. Since that time they have been instrumental in both war and peace in the protection of this country in many ways... building, preserving, managing the waterways, etc. We love their campgrounds and always take every opportunity to stay in them as well as tour the dams, visit the museums, etc. They are completely integrated in the history of our country.

We ate lunch that afternoon at Grandma's, yes it's touristy but again, when in Rome....and both of us had Walleye, prepared differently.  The pan fried is much better than the normal deep fried in our opinion, much less coating.much more fish. On the way home, we drove the Duluth Skyline Drive in the direction of Two Harbors - not as scenic as it could be in my opinion, but it has been in existence a long time so am sure it changes. We started in the middle so may have missed most of the really scenic parts but with all of the trees in full flush, it was extremely hard to see anything below. I am guessing late fall, winter or very early spring  might actually be the best time for this drive, since they impacted most of our viewing.

COE tug boat and rock barges in Agate Bay
Back in Two Harbors, we watched the COE tow several barges full of big rocks into Agate Bay, nestling up next to one of the ore loading docks. Have no idea what they will be used for as we left the next morning, but maybe to add to bay breakfront?  Additionally, we saw one of the ore boats, the Mesabi Miner, come into that same bay, again a real art of maneuvering, especially since the bay is actually very small. Wind was blowing a good 20-25mph also - hard on pictures, and even harder on that captain. If you enlarge the picture to the left, you can see the ore boat, the ore docks and on the right of the right dock...the COE tug and barges, tucked out of the way.

OK, laundry's done..need to fold and get it back to the trailer. Then lunch and get ready to go on our NPS tour in Voyageur National Park to Kettle Falls .Au Revoir mes Amis.



Monday, June 20, 2016

The North Shore...

Site 102 across from Burlington Bay on Lake Superior 
Looking at bay from our site.
Staying at the public campground in Two Harbors, MN...on Burlington Bay. Two Harbors is one of the larger cities on the North Shore of Lake Superior. If you look on the actual blog in the box...Where are we now??? you will notice Two Harbors is highlighted indicating a link. I'm going to continue to link the location to information about our current area.

We picked a busy weekend to be in Two Rivers. The Grandma's Marathon was run yesterday morning so campgrounds, hotels and restaurants have been full. I've had this reservation for a long time so we had no problem, but the guy who pulled in ahead of us...and was in a hurry all the way, passing us south of Duluth, wasn't as lucky. Guess he got to stay, but was having to move sites.

The marathon, half marathon and 5K all start in Two Rivers. The participants run towards Duluth on Scenic MN 16 and along the lake in Duluth. Since they were running southwest towards Duluth yesterday, we drove northeast towards Canada. We didn't drive to the border, too far for a leisurely stop and go trip, instead enjoyed a couple of state parks, a stop in Silver Bay for a short hike to view the Taconite operation and then return to Two Harbors for a late lunch at Betty's Pies

I ordered the fried Walleye sandwich on fresh house made Ciabatta....when in Rome...and Bruce had the warm roast beef with melted swiss cheese, chipotle mayo,  pepperoncinis and jalapeƱos, again on Ciabatta.  We shared halves, so we each got to taste both, very good, but we both agreed they could have had less bread. Of course we had to then have the house specialty...pie. There were baked pies, crumb top pies, cream pies and even s'mores and bread pudding pies.
We shared a slice of Caramel Apple Crumb...since we'd already eaten all that bread and thought a 2 crust pie might be overdoing...instead we added 2 scoops of ice cream. Pie slices are 6/pie, so there was enough for us both....and yes, the crust was divine. It was flaky and light like an old fashioned lard crust, the filling was great and the crumb/caramel topping perfect. No calories because we left nothing to show. 

Food must be on my mind right now...our experiences are out of order. The drive "east" (the direction the locals would send us since the north shore is exactly that, the north side of Superior with road running generally NE) was beautiful. We left after breakfast, before everyone involved with the marathon even thought about other things, and actually got to enjoy some of the road views before everyone and their brother showed. 

First stop - Gooseberry Falls State Park. Hiked (yes I know you are all snorting when I use that word to describe walking on a path...but it's better than nothing) to the Upper Falls first and then back to Middle and Lower. Didn't actually go completely to the bottom to see middle and lower in one view...knew I'd have to hike back up, but still enjoyed. This park was built by CCC in 1935-1937.  Beautiful Visitors Center, multiple trails, campground (full of course.. remember it was Grandma's marathon weekend) and a really nice gift shop. Great nice place to stop and enjoy some views...and free.
Upper Falls
Middle Falls

The other real stop we made was Silver Bay. We drove to the scenic overlook and hiked (makes me seem healthier doesn't it?) the circular trail to the three different overlooks. Silver Bay is the home of a Taconite operation...the production of iron ore pellets that are ultimately used in making steel. It has a very interesting history..the mining operations, the innovations, the transportation...all revolving around the ups and downs of the American steel market.


Today we stayed in Two Harbors, actually hiking (healthy walking again, lol) 4-5 miles from the campground to the downtown harbor. Hazel walked with us, the weather was cool, the warm air creating fog over the 40° Lake and the breezes blowing it in and out. Some ephemeral views for sure. Spent time at the old train depot visiting the two train engines on display as well as gazing at the iron ore loading facilities, 2 still used. They swam in and out of the fog and with hammering and engine noises coming from the inside areas,  we never did figure out what was happening. It was a good thing we walked early, once the sun came out the air warmed considerably and those nasty black flies followed. Everyone has warned us about mosquitoes but the black flies are worse in my opinion. Groceries were the highlight of the afternoon with a severe thunderstorm this evening. Hazel was beside herself. Anyway, tomorrow we head to Duluth to see what's interesting. Weather should be perfect.
Iron Ore loading docks
Au Revoir mes Amis.
DM&IR Yellowstone #229
Duluth and Iron Range Railroad No 3 Spot

Along the hiking path above Lake's edge.
Hiking Path
  
Lake Superior Trivia