Yesterday (Saturday)was one of Orvieto's two weekly open market days. Farmers with fresh foods, butchers with meats and cheeses, artisans with hand made items, and vendors offering shoes, clothes, household items, etc. and even flea market imports came to ply their trades in the Piazza del Popolo. It appears most Orvietoans came to shop too. It was an interesting way to shop. Maggi and I looked but, big spenders that we are, purchased only a hand made bracelet each.
After market we headed to the eastern end of town to check out
La funicolare di Orvieto (the funicular or incline train) that connects historical, walled Orvieto on the plateau to Orvieto Scala, the more modern section at the base of the plateau that has grown up around the train station and is the shopping and transportation hub. We rode the incline train down, checked out the train station and rode back up so did no exploring of that area. After walking up hill to town center from the funicular, we decided lunch was in order so stopped for a glass of wine, a shared Caprese pizza and then gelato (yum, yum, yum) on our walk back to Ripa Medici.
We had dinner reservations at 7:30 at what our hostess Sabrina called a "special place". Just to make it clear, those were early reservations. Restaurants don't open usually for dinner before that time. Anyway, we dined last night right around the corner at Ristorante Al Pozzo Etrusco da Giovanni. It was indeed special. We began with Antipasti- Fonduta di formaggio al tartufo con pane croccante (Truffle cheese fondue with crusty bread). The Primi piatti or first plate was Tortellini al tartufo fresco ( Tortellini with fresh truffles). Since we shared each course we decided to have Secondi piatti or second plate. We chose the Tagliata di manzo con pere e pecorino locale which ended up being sliced steak, cooked medium, with a local pecorino sauce topped with thinly sliced pears. It was an amazing combination. The first two courses required a white wine so we enjoyed a nice Orvieto Classico. A Montefalco Rosso paired perfectly with the steak. We spent almost 2 hours on dinner, never feeling rushed. In fact, in Italy, you can have the table all night if that's what you want and the bill won't appear until you actually ask, il conto, per favore. No "turn those tables" mentality exists here.
Today started dreary so we decided on a walk, at least part ways, on the Anello della Rupe (Ring of the rock/cliff/outcropping), the walking-trail that runs around the volcanic rock on which the town of Orvieto is perched. It’s only a few meters below the city center, yet it’s a world away.
The percorso (trail) is a trek that circumnavigates the town, located midway down its steep cliffs. We started right outside our apartment and walked about a third of the way. It is up, down, up, down, and then when we reached our getting off point it was up, up, up....I thought I was going to die.
The trail is lined with rustic wooden fences. If you look up you can see grottos cut into the cliffs as well as the walls of Orvieto. The view is of postcard perfect Umbrian countryside, including the Necropoli del Crocefisso del Tufo...Etruscan tombs dating back to the 4th-6th centuies B.C. and named for the little chapel, Chiesa del Crocefisso del Tufo you pass on the path set into the tufa under the city with its crucifix carved into the rock. Quite a walking path they have, don't you agree? My goal is to try to walk the whole Anello della Rupe before we leave.
We wandered the little alleys and roads of Orvieto after our walk today, ultimately lunching close to home on the local pasta Umbrichelli, invented in Orvieto during war times when there was a shortage of food and money. It is made solely from water and flour. We both had it with what looked like sautéed veggies and a little olive oil. A great lunch we want to repeat before we leave. After a short rest we went to the Duomo and took the self-guided walk. More on its history later. The day ended with a quick supper we purchased at a pizzaria and brought home, hot ham and cheese sandwiches, and an early night. Ciao.
No comments:
Post a Comment